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Posts Tagged ‘smokies’

Park officials “optimistic” about effort to save hemlocks

Sunday, December 6th, 2009

GSMNP-The Knoxville News-Sentinel reported over the weekend about cautious optimism on the part of Great Smoky Mountains National Park officials about their efforts to curtail the invasion of the hemlock woolly adelgid.

An excerpt:

“The work to preserve Eastern hemlock trees and forests in 2009 progressed and showed successes despite increased decline and obvious mortality of trees throughout the park,” the report states.

“‘Cautiously optimistic’ is a good term for it,” said park spokesman Bob Miller.

A three-pronged strategy, using a combination of predatory beetles, foliar treatments and systemic treatments, is being followed to destroy hemlock woolly adelgids on the trees.

Because of cost, accessibility issues and priorities given to most-visited areas, the treatment area is limited in scope and includes about 132,000 hemlocks in the park.

Read the story here.Read a post at Ruminations from the Distant Hills here.Our post “Saying Goodbye to the Hemlock”, from last year, is here.

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OUTDOORS: Thanksgiving memories from the Smokies

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

BRYSON CITY–The Smoky Mountain Times’s Jim Casada takes a break from recent reviews of outdoor literature to share some Thanksgiving memories of eating and hunting in the Smokies.

An excerpt:

From that point on throughout my boyhood and beyond, rabbit hunting loomed large in Thanksgiving weekends. Hunts on Thanksgiving Day were normally abbreviated, because we had a grand feast and family gathering commencing sometime in early afternoon and culminating with a feast featuring fare like Grandma’s cathead biscuits and gravy, Aunt Emma’s ambrosia, Mom’s applesauce cake, and of course, turkey.

The trimmings included things which aren’t standard everywhere, as Grandma Minnie provided delicacies such as watermelon and peach pickles, leather britches beans, and a brown-sugar topped casserole using cushaws – an old-time winter squash.

Read Casada’s piece here.

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MOVIES: Cormac McCarthy’s “The Road” out at last

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Fans of Cormac McCarthy’s gruesome post-apocalyptic novel “The Road” — some of which is set in the Smokies — have hung on semi-patiently for the oft-delayed release of the film, directed by John Hillcoat and starring Viggo Mortensen.

Well the picture is out for the holiday season, and the New York Times‘ A.O. Scott has a review.

An excerpt:

The most arresting aspect of “The Road” is just how fully the filmmakers have realized this bleak, blighted landscape of a modern society reduced to savagery. A grimy, damp fog hangs over everything, and instead of birdsong there is the eerie creak and crash of falling trees. Vehicles sit abandoned on highways, houses stand looted and vacant, and what used to be towns are afterimages of violence and wreckage.

The only thing scarier than the empty, depopulated roads is the possibility of seeing people on them, who are more likely to be predators than possible companions. (However, since this is Cormac McCarthy country, we do meet an ancient, nearly blind man who speaks in riddles and is played by Robert Duvall.) The panic that must have attended the early days of destruction has long since given way, for the father and son, to weary anxiety and, in the boy’s case, constant fear. This is normal life: desperate scavenging punctuated by bouts of acute danger and occasional spasms of good luck.

Read the review and see slides and trailers here.

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OUTDOORS: Best hiking guidebooks of the Smokies

Friday, November 20th, 2009

BRYSON CITY–Jim Casada churns out an amazing amount of outdoors writing for the Smoky Mountain Times, and his current series of book reviews is invaluable.

His most recent column takes a lengthy look at these hiking guidebooks of the Smokies:

Ken Wise’s “Hiking Trails of the Great Smoky Mountains.”

Russ Manning’s “100 Hikes in the great Smoky Mountains National Park”

“The Best of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park: A Hiker’s Guide to Trails and Attractions” by Russ Manning and Sondra Jamieson

Danny Bernstein’s “Hiking the Carolina Mountains.”

“North Carolina Hiking Trails” by Allen de Hart

Johnny Molloy’s “Trial by Trail: Backpacking in the Smoky Mountains,”

Michal Strutin’s “History Hikes of the Smokies”

Casada’s closing paragraph:

By all means, seek some armchair adventure through works such as those mentioned above, but the ultimate adventure, whatever the season, comes through being on the trail. Whether it’s a leisurely walk up lower Deep Creek – the sort scores of folks make daily – or one of those strenuous 20-plus mile ventures my brother Don enjoys, to be afoot in the park is to tread paths of wonder.

Read Casada’s column here.

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Nat. Geographic Traveler: the Great Smokies have “troubles”

Friday, November 6th, 2009

GSMNP–National Geographic Traveler, in its sixth rating of worldwide travel destinations, calls the Great Smoky Mountains National Park “a national treasure surrounded by a bathtub ring of ugly, unplanned development.”

An excerpt from a story on the matter from the Knoxville News Sentinel:

The survey of 437 experts, which including travel writers, historic preservationists, ecologists and others, placed the Smokies in the next-to-worst category: “Places with Troubles.”

The judges whose comments were published with the story were slightly more lenient on the North Carolina side of the Smokies than the Tennessee side, which one judge described as displaying “the worst excesses of mass tourist development … ”

Tourism officials from Tennessee told the News Sentinel that the rankings were inherently biased against more popular and accessible locations.

Read the Knoxville News Sentinel story here.
Read the National Geographic Traveler story here.

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Association Publishes 80 year-old “Lost” Novel by Horace Kephart

Friday, October 9th, 2009

GSMNP–Great Smoky Mountains National Park managers have announced that the Park’s cooperating partner, Great Smoky Mountains Association, has just published and released its newest book, Smoky Mountain Magic, a novel by Horace Kephart.

Horace Kephart

Horace Kephart

Although completed in 1929, two years before the author’s death, the novel was never published until now.

Cathy Cook, Chief of Resource Education and Science at the Smokies said, “We had no idea that a Kephart novel even existed. The unpublished manuscript for Smoky Mountain Magic was handed down within the Kephart family until it was finally brought to the attention of park superintendent, Dale Ditmanson, by Libby Kephart Hargrave, the author’s great-granddaughter, at one of this year’s 75th Anniversary celebrations.

The typewritten manuscript was complete, having gone through numerous drafts and revisions over the course of the eight years that Horace Kephart labored over it.”

Smoky Mountain Magic’s fictional story takes place during the summer of 1925, mostly along the Deep Creek watershed in the Great Smoky Mountains, but also in a thinly-disguised Bryson City (called Kittuwa) and the Cherokee Indian Reservation. Characters include a mysterious stranger (who resembles the author in his youth), a greedy land baron, a cadre of mountain folk ranging in constitution from stalwart to conniving, a beautiful botanist, a Cherokee chief, and a witch. The novel fits the adventure story genre of the day with a bit of romance interwoven.

The famed author and outdoorsman first came to the Great Smoky Mountains in 1904 looking for a fresh start in life. He moved into an abandoned cabin on a tributary of Hazel Creek, a remote area even by early 20th century southern Appalachian standards. There Kephart befriended his independent and self-reliant neighbors and pursued his passions for hiking, camping, fishing, hunting, and generally living off the land.

The result of his time in what Kephart described as the “back of beyond” were Our Southern Highlanders, the classic work on the people of the Smokies, and Camping and Woodcraft, the definitive work on enjoying the out of doors. Both works are still in print and continue to nurture an enthusiastic following.

During the 1920s, Kephart and his friend and fellow hiker George Masa began a vigorous campaign to have the Great Smoky Mountains protected as a national park. Kephart wrote letters, articles, and a booklet championing the cause, and Masa contributed his breath-taking landscape photographs.

Together they raised awareness of the significance and beauty of the Smokies and sounded the alarm over the devastation being caused by unsound, industrial logging operations. Both Kephart and Masa figure prominently in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park segment of a new 12-hour documentary series by Ken Burns entitled “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea,” which will begin September 27 on PBS.

For their successful effort, both Kephart and Masa have neighboring mountains named for them. A stream, trail, and camping shelter in the national park also bear Kephart’s name.

The 248 page Smoky Mountain Magic is now available in both paperback ($12.95) and hard cover ($19.95). All proceeds are being donated to the Horace Kephart Foundation (in support of the annual Horace Kephart Days Celebration in Bryson City), Great Smoky Mountains Association, and Friends of the Smokies.

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Charlotte Observer: Great Smokies on “shaky ground”

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

REGIONAL–On Sunday, the Charlotte Observer’s Bruce Henderson outlined the challenges faced by the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

His lead:

Having just celebrated its 75th birthday, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park finds its future threatened by wavering public support for America’s green places.

The problem passes from one generation to the next: a chronic lack of financial support in the past, declining visits now and a future shaped by today’s children who are spending far less time in the outdoors.

Another excerpt:

Kids don’t play outdoors – splashing in creeks and chasing fireflies – as they once did, numerous studies and most parents will attest. Increasingly sedentary and overweight, they’re more likely to be mesmerized by a Wii than a salamander.

“Nature-deficit disorder,” author Richard Louv called it in an influential 2005 book. Research has linked lack of unstructured time outdoors to childhood depression, anxiety and behavioral problems.

“If they don’t have those experiences, then we’re worried that it won’t be a priority for future generations to keep natural areas and a clean, healthy environment,” said Lisa Tolley, who heads the N.C. Office of Environmental Education.

The whole story here.

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National Parks Traveler on recent pit bull incident in the Smokies

Monday, September 21st, 2009

GSMNP–A Tennessee man has a date with a magistrate after his pit bull severely injured a deer near Elkmont last week.

The unleashed 100 lb. dog attacked a mature 130 lb. buck, and the deer was so badly wounded that it had to be euthanized.

A news report is here, but the online National Parks Traveler goes into more depth, discussing past incidents:

An excerpt:

A … spokesman at the park said such incidents are fairly rare in the Smokies, and described another situation several years ago that illustrates the value in the “leash law” for protecting pets as well as wildlife. In that case the dog was riding in the bed of a pickup truck which was being driven through the Cades Cove area.

The dog spotted a black bear, jumped out of the truck, and headed for the bear, which was large enough that it wasn’t intimidated by the dog. A chase ensured, and the dog became the prey, running back toward the owner, who had stopped his truck alongside the road. In this case, the pursuing bear reportedly broke off the chase when the dog ran into a group of people who had gathered to watch the action. That case fortunately ended without further incident for both the dog and the bear, but this one could have taken a nasty turn.

Read the post here.

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500 wild hogs killed in Smokies; most since ‘87

Monday, June 15th, 2009

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK–Each year, wildlife managers in the Smokies hunt and kill wild hogs — wild boar, feral pigs and mixtures of the two — because the animals are non-native, somewhat dangerous and because they do a lot of environmental damage.

This year’s hunt netted over 500, which is the most in over two decades, according to a story in the Knoxville News Sentinel.

Excerpt:

Since the late 1950s, the park has removed almost 12,000 wild hogs. The animals are a target for control because they’re non-native, and they do considerable damage to the ecosystem by eating rare plants and salamander, defecating in streams and churning up the ground.

The park’s hog population traces back to the early 1920s, when a herd of European wild hogs escaped from a game reserve on Hooper’s Bald in Graham County, N.C. By the 1940s, the wild hogs had spread into other counties as well as the Smokies.

pig 500 wild hogs killed in Smokies; most since 87

Kim DeLozier, chief wildlife biologist for the Smokies, said he believes the park’s hog population has been augmented in recent years by the addition of feral hogs – domestic pigs that have escaped or been released into the wild.

Read the whole piece here.

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More on bat-killing fungus

Saturday, April 4th, 2009

GSMNP–Yesterday’s announcement from the Great Smoky Mountains National Park that it would close caves in the park to help prevent the arrival of “white nose syndrome”, a malady that is killing bats by the hundreds-of-thousands in the northeast, drew blank looks from many of us.

National Parks Traveler provides more information.

Why should we care? Here’s an excerpt from the Traveler story:

… the loss of viable bat populations would certainly have a direct affect on our activities, and on the ecological balance in many national parks. Bats play a major role in controlling insect populations—some bats can eat up to 2,000 mosquito-sized insect in a single night.

The Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries notes:

Quote:

The impact of white-nose syndrome on bat populations could be highly significant if the condition cannot be controlled and continues to spread. Some WNS caves in New York have experienced declines of more than 90% of the bat populations.Losses in bat populations of this magnitude will cause a substantial ripple effect due to the important role that bats play as insect feeders and as a food source for other animals (hawks, owls, raccoons, skunks, and other animals that prey on bats)….

Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection Commissioner Gina McCarthy said,

Quote:

While no one yet knows for sure what is causing WNS and why such large numbers of bats are dying, we will see the ramifications of this in just a few months. Far fewer bats will be out there working to consume mosquitoes and other flying insects that attack people as well as our forests and farmlands.

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National Park to move forward with new visitor center

Tuesday, February 24th, 2009

CHEROKEE–Officials at Great Smoky Mountains National Park have completed an Environmental Assessment of the potential impacts of constructing the planned new Oconaluftee Visitor Center and have issued a Finding of No Significant Impact (FONSI). The decision clears the way for construction of the new state-of-the art visitor center, immediately adjacent to the Park’s existing facility, on Newfound Gap Road (U.S. 441) about 2 miles inside the Park’s Cherokee, North Carolina Entrance.

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The new complex will include a new visitor center, restrooms, and an information kiosk along with a new reconfigured parking area and access design changes to Newfound Gap Road which will provide for safer and smoother travel in and out of the facility. The new 6,000-7,000-square-foot visitor center will replace the current 1,100 square foot visitor center which was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the late 1930’s to be used a Ranger Station and Magistrates court room.

Over the years Park managers say that visitation has risen to over 350,000 annually which vastly exceeds the capacity of both the visitor center and its restrooms.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park Superintendent, Dale Ditmanson said, “We are extremely excited about having a new state-of-the-art facility and are especially proud that we expect to construct and equip it without any federal funding at all. Our two primary partners have stepped up to fund the entire project. The Great Smoky Mountains Association, which operates our Park bookstores, has committed $2.5 million for its construction. The Friends of the Smokies are providing the $500,000 needed to design and create all the maps, exhibits and other media to orient and educate visitors to the center.”

Park officials say that the new Oconaluftee Visitor Center will provide an insight into the Park’s cultural history from the earliest Native Americans through the European farmers, loggers and others who occupied the area prior to the Park’s establishment in 1934. The existing center will remain and be converted for multi-purpose use including a classroom for educational programs and community outreach efforts.

“The new Center is also being designed be as energy efficient and sustainable as we can make it.” Ditmanson continued, “We are building it to be nationally certified as an environmentally friendly building under the LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) rating system.”

Some of the environmentally friendly measures to be explored in design of the new Center are as follows:

  • Geothermal Heat and Cooling: The heating and cooling system will take advantage of the constant 55 degrees temperature of the earth, by pumping water into the ground though tubing where it will gain or give off heat, increasing the efficiency of the system.
  • Passive solar: The orientation of the building and the select placement of windows will allow plenty of sunshine into the building and also provide heat. Working with the Oak Ridge National Laboratory, the Park has taken solar measurements where windows are to be placed, to be sure they are sized correctly, to allow just the right amount of light, and offset the need for heat.
  • Rain water cistern: A cistern will be collect rain water from the roofs. The water will be filtered and then used to flush toilets.
  • Water Saving Fixtures: Bathroom fixtures will use waterless urinals and water saving water faucets and toilets.
  • Recycled Materials: Everything from roofing materials, to cabinets, siding, and structural supports will be made of recycled materials.
  • Landscaping: Natives plantings will be used that will not require extensive watering after they become established.
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Ellison: Adapting for cold weather

Thursday, January 1st, 2009

BRYSON CITY–Naturalist George Ellison and his wife Elizabeth live “off the grid”, but are more prepared than most for the weather extremes we sometimes see in the mountains.

In this column for the Smoky Mountains News, Ellison notes how some other living things prepare for cold.

His lede:

Several weeks ago, the nighttime temperature dropped below 10-degrees Fahrenheit at our place. The next day my wife, Elizabeth, and I spent most of our time in house on the North Carolina side of the Smokies, feeding wood into the two woodstoves in our living and kitchen areas. Out the back windows, we could see birds foraging around the feeders. Through the front windows, across the little creek that flows through our property, rhododendrons drooped their leaves like forlorn sheep, indicating beyond all doubt that the first really cold snap of the winter was upon us.

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(Updated) President pushes for bikes in National Parks

Sunday, November 9th, 2008

GSMNP–According to Asheville’s WLOS TV, President Bush, lacking anything else to fret about these days, is pushing to change National Park Service rules so that individual park superintendents would be able to choose whether they want to allow mountain bikes.

Local bikers argue that bikes would cause no more damage than horses already do, but since horses — on the limited trails they can traverse — cause a large amount of damage, the bikers argument doesn’t seem like a great one.

A Great Smoky Mountains National Park spokesperson told WLOS that in his opinion, even if the rules change goes through, it would be a long shot in the Smokies.

The Charlotte Observer’s Jack Horan has a piece on these regulations here.

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The Scots-Irish and the African-American

Thursday, November 6th, 2008

SYLVA–It was one of those sequences of odd serendipity that comes up now and then, when each event seems tied to the one that came before.

Thursday morning I flipped on the radio in time to hear a “Morning Edition” story about Richard Trumka, a former steelworker and a current labor leader with the AFL-CIO, who’s been working the backroads, stirring the pot for presidential contender Sen. Barack Obama. He gives speeches on the role of race in the race, and, as befits his former profession, he’s quite a firebrand. He doesn’t preach to the choir, he speaks to mostly rural steelworkers, and he takes it directly at ‘em.

He tells them that while there are many reasons to vote for Obama, there’s “only one really, really bad reason to vote against Barack Obama. And that’s because he’s not white.”

During each speech, he tells the story of an encounter he had with a woman in the Appalachian mining town where the both lived. After a string of excuses, the woman told him she wouldn’t vote for Obama because of his race.

Trumka said he told her to look around at their town. “This town is dying — literally dying,” he told her. “Our kids are moving away because there’s no future here. And here’s a man, Barack Obama, who’s going to fight for people like us, and you won’t vote for him because of the color of his skin? Are you out of your ever-loving mind?”

Later, the same morning, a Sylva friend talked to me of her surprise at the number of McCain/Palin signs she’d seen in nearby Swain County. She’s no neophyte–she understands southern mountain voter dynamics–but she also runs a thriving, though commodity and labor-intensive business that puts her in a strong position to understand how rotten things have gotten in the past eight years.

She sees clearly that a vote for more of the same government we’ve got is in direct opposition to the best interests of most everybody in this region.

In some senses Swain County has a beef with regulation-heavy feds. Nearly three-quarters of the county belongs to the federal government. But this entire region also benefited deeply from the arrival of the TVA and from FDR’s depression-era New Deal, a fact that helps cause an odd political dynamic across the southern mountains. The Republican Party, in structural terms, hardly exists at all. But the advantage of being a Democrat dwindles in inverse proportion to the level of office a candidate seeks. The mountain democratic machine is disproportionately made up of old-time pols, many of whom are of clannish and independent Scots-Irish heritage, and many of whom are socially conservative in the same way that Sarah Palin is socially conservative.

Friday, I picked up on a story in the Durham Herald-Sun regarding Smoky Mountain High graduate Katya Hill’s direction of a stage adaptation of Joe Bageant’s “Deer Hunting with Jesus; Dispatches from the American Class War.

Bageant comes from a rough background in Winchester, VA., as a child of hard-working parents each with an eighth grade education and with a 250-year family history in the same town. He went on to make a name for himself as an editor and writer, and he eventually returned to Winchester, where he knows ever-body, and wrote an hilarious and wrenching book that takes a frank look at America’s growing, permanent white underclass. Bageant speaks in honest terms about why this group consistently votes against it’s own best interests — and why it so despises “liberals”.

Writes Bageant at one point: “Being born lower class in working America makes some of us, probably most of us, class conscious for life. Consequently, a good deal of this book is about class in America, especially the class from which I sprang, the bottom third of Americans constituting the unacknowledged working- class poor: conservative, politically misinformed or oblivious, and patriotic to their own detriment.”

Then, also today, fellow blogger Gulahiyi was kind enough to send me a copy of Kathleen Parker’s recent column in the Washington Post, in which she talks at some length with author and Western Carolina University professor Ron Rash, and also with author and US Senator James Webb, both of whom have written trenchant, widely popular books that cast in sharp relief the history of we Scots-Irish, and why we act the way we do.

Says Rash, “One thing about Appalachian people is that they don’t bitch and moan.”

Both Webb and Rash make clear through their writings that any sense of entitlement is distasteful to Appalachian people in general, mainly because they’ve done for so long with so little. But the writers also illustrate in different ways the fact that when “outlanders” show up in our verdant hills, it’s usually to take something they need, whether it be timber, votes, minerals or tough boys to fight and die. They don’t show up again until they need something else. In that way, through exploitation, African Americans and white Appalachian Americans share more in common than they know.

Together, my little string of events wrapped itself neatly around what makes this election so compelling.

As Webb wrote recently in the Wall Street Journal: “The greatest realignment in modern politics would take place rather quickly if the right national leader found a way to bring the Scots-Irish and African-Americans to the same table.”

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The Great Smoky Mountains National Park at 75 years; first in a series from the News-Sentinel

Monday, October 27th, 2008

KNOXVILLE/GSMNP-The Knoxville News-Sentinel offers the first in a planned series of features on the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, leading up to it’s 75th anniversary next year.

The News-Sentinel might be the strongest daily newspaper between Raleigh and Nashville, and its online package is well-developed and easy to use.

A quote from the opening segment:

This is your park.

This is our park.

The people, from schoolchildren collecting pennies to a foundation donating $5 million of Rockefeller money, bought this land.

Others – Cherokee and white settlers alike – paid for it with blood and sweat. More than 9 million people a year visit the park and pay no admission for the privilege.

Next year, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park turns 75 years old. The much older mountains within its boundaries have gone from being logged-out yet inhabited to a mature, re-grown forest protected from development but surrounded by vacation cabins, water slides, restaurants, hotels and golf courses, both full-sized and miniature.

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